After graduating from the University of Washington in 1969, he joined the Navy and finished basic flight training in 1971. In 1968, John and Scott Davis, a well-known Yosemite big-wall climber, climbed the Bonatti Pillar of the Petite Dru and the East Face of the Aiguille de Fou, both first-time one-day ascents. While still in his teens, John guided in Estes Park with his older brother, Brian, for five years building his confidence and alpine skills. John Rogers Marts, born June 3, 1947, in Illinois, was an exceptional climber and, like many who take up mountaineering in the Pacific Northwest, as comfortable on the region’s snow and ice volcanoes as he was bushwhacking into the granite spires of the north Cascades. In good spirit, John’s wit and humor endeared him to our 19-person American team, the approximately 160 other climbers from 18 different nations, and our Russian hosts during the deadly summer in the Russian Pamirs in 1974. Typical John: A little hell here and there kept the spirit alive. John just smiled and held the curled length of film aloft, as the Russian crowd broke into laughter. The officer then pulled the strip of 36 exposures from the canister into the sunlight. Using gestures, the officer ordered John to remove his film from the camera. With a “Cool Hand Luke” grin, John slowly walked toward us while secretly winding his film into the canister. The officer knew immediately that John was documenting the argument and motioned for him to come over. As the crowd turned to where the finger pointed, John lowered his camera. The jack-booted Russian policeman and I were arguing over my jay-walking across Red Square when a citizen approached, said something in Russian to the officer, and then pointed toward John Marts, who was partially hidden behind the corner of a building.

John Marts, 71, December 15 John Marts (left) and Bob Craig at the base of Peak XIX prior to a four-man attempt on the East Face, Soviet Pamirs, 1974.

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